Jackson is an intriguing mix of the new and the old. It’s a place where Southern hospitality still goes a long way - but also one coming to terms with its history, especially in terms of race.
This shift in culture has led to a slew of fascinating museum openings. There are few better places to get a sense of the seismic shifts in American life brought about by the Civil Rights movement than here. But that’s not all – there’s also fine southern food and neighborhoods with a modern vibe.
The fight for rights
While there’s glory to be found in Jackson’s past, there’s struggle too. Follow the Mississippi Freedom Trail Markers dotted around the city to dip your toe into the charged racial tension of the not-so-distant past. They include the home of activist Medgar Evers and the relatively new Civil Rights Museum.
Profound and thought provoking, the museum is dotted with sculptures commemorating the victims of lynching, while it shares an entrance – and many themes – with the neighbouring Museum of Mississippi History. Learn about the legacy of the Jim Crow laws, slavery and the civil war, and the injustices meted out to those protesting for voting rights and human dignity. It’s unflinching and stunning.
Fabulous Fondren
The buzzy Fondren district has a hipster vibe that seems transplanted from Portland or Brooklyn - but with a uniquely southern spin. Chock-full of great coffee spots, independent stores, pop-up food venues and the terrific Fondren Art Gallery dedicated to local artists, this is the coolest area in the state.
Wander the friendly streets, passing from bakery to bookstore, café to bar. Dip into the Pig and Pint for barbecue – smoked wings, brisket sandwich and cola-glazed baby back ribs are just a warm up for the fried Twinkie strawberry shortcake dessert.
Babalu is the place to go for southern-inspired tapas or hearty tacos that run the gamut from cauliflower to crispy pork belly. For some lip-smacking seafood, look no further than Saltine with its oyster bar, po’boys, alligator gumbo, and catfish and chips.
The surprising south
One of the joys of Jackson is how it combines things you’d expect to see in the south alongside attractions that take you aback. You’d expect to see the home of Eudora Welty, the Pulitzer Prize-winning author who was born and died here. More unexpected, however, is the International Museum of Muslim Cultures, which has some fine exhibitions including a permanent one on Timbuktu.
The Mississippi Museum of Art boasts a stunning contemporary collection that takes in pop artists Andy Warhol, Mother of American modernism Georgia O’Keeffe and dozens of artists from the state. If you have kids in tow, the Mississippi Children’s Museum might be a more popular destination. There are toy exhibits, a constant program of events, literacy garden and plenty of chances to play. It’s another sign that tells you that Jackson isn’t all about the past.
Make the most of your time in Mississippi’s vibrant capital when you book car rental in Jackson.