Bold beaches for the bronzed and beautiful, public art that surprises and delights, art deco splendour around every corner and a night life that’s the envy of the rest of Florida – welcome to Miami.
Here you can spend the day splashing in the Atlantic Ocean and the evening exploring the vibrant Cuban district, while the museums and galleries are sun-sational too…
Beach life
Some images of Miami are indelible – palm trees swaying next to beaches and acres of sand full of sun-seekers are some of the most familiar sights. There’s a beach for everyone here, with varying levels of crowds, cost and things to do.
The busiest is South Beach, the first port of call for many visitors, with its golden sand and blue water, flanked by cool cafes and bars. If you want somewhere quieter, aim for Mid-Beach or 21st-45th Street Beach - more popular with the locals than out-of-towners.
Head over the Key Biscayne Bridge for Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park – that short distance transforms the vibe entirely and you’ll find a charming old 1845 lighthouse here – Florida’s oldest building. It’s the perfect spot for watersports too.
For something a touch more luxurious, there are numerous parts of the beach reserved for private clubs and hotels. If you’re not staying at the particular hotel, you can still usually pay a fee to use the beach clubs, and enjoy the stunning views while being waited on.
City of art
Part of Miami’s buoyant vibrancy is down to its commitment to public art. Yes, there are brilliant galleries, but some of the most interesting and inspiring pieces are free to view on the walls of the city - so there’s no need to leave the sunshine behind for a second.
For a blast of modern graffiti, head to Wynwood Walls where abandoned warehouses have been transformed into a canvas for colour. There are famous pieces by early graffiti legends such as Futura, but also fresh murals by modern stars like Shepard Fairey.
Miami Art Week takes place every year – part of the Art Basel international fair – and Ugo Rondinone’s Miami Mountain was revealed in 2016 as part of it. Head to Collins Park near South Beach to see the stacked stones – some 75 tons worth. Elsewhere, keep an eye out for Slide Mantra in Bayfront Park, Le Corbusier, Elastika by Zaha Hadid and the perennially popular Eye Dome by Buckminster Fuller.
You can tick off much of the art by taking the Design District’s Art Walk or the Wynwood’s Art Walk – they take part on the same night and are a great way to get a feel for these neighbourhoods.
If you do want a break from the sun, Miami is home to art galleries galore, most leaning towards the contemporary and cutting edge. Admire work by Andy Warhol and Francis Bacon at Markowicz Fine Art, and visit exhibitions at the Perez Art Museum. The latter is worth visiting for the building alone, mixing modern architecture with soft greenery.
Art Deco delights
Miami’s architecture varies from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, district to district - but the undoubted highlight are the Art Deco buildings strewn across the city.
The Art Deco District close to Miami Beach is the best place to see these bright and beautiful buildings with their clean lines, sleek curves and pastel colours. Tick off as many of the 800 as you can or just head for the highlights.
Between 11th and 14th streets, you’ll discover Congress Hotel, Cavalier and Tides, reminders of the city’s glamorous past. You can, of course, stay at some of these fine places – sleeping in history. The Raleigh – dating from 1940 - has an Art Deco interior and exterior, while you can catch a film or a concert at the Colony Theatre. This 1935 classic was restored to its former glory recently.
A feast of food
Miami is Florida’s best eating city by far – a place where you can do high-end fine dining, get your fingers sticky on fried local seafood, or explore the cuisine of various immigrant cultures. Many Cubans have made their home in Little Havana. Calle Ocho isn’t just a great place to go and eat, but also one where you can learn about Cuban culture, dance to the music and pick up some fine cigars.
Food-wise, Versailles is hugely popular with locals, with prominent Latino politicians doing deals here. It’s been packing them in since 1971. Cool down with some refreshing ceviche or go for traditional classics such as plantain soup and yellow rice with pork.
El Mago de las Fritas in West Miami is equally famous, perhaps because Barack Obama grabbed a burger here while he was still US president. He opted for the house special ‘frita’ – a burger stacked with shoestring fries.
For fine dining that’s a whole lot of fun, Jose Andres’ Bazaar Mar is one of the most celebrated openings of recent years. A playful and varied menu with an emphasis on seafood is housed within the SLS Brickell Hotel. Textures are interesting – a smoked salmon macaron, a spherical fake olive that’s a tribute to Tickets in Barcelona. The tasting menu is the best way to get a grip on the complexity coming out of this kitchen.
Cool Coral Gables
Head south-west of downtown Miami and you’ll find Coral Gables, a city in its own right that hosts some of Miami’s true highlights. The 1928 City Hall is a grand affair, home to a few superb paintings, while the Biltmore is a jazz-age hotel that retains all its allure – Al Capone once operated a speak-easy here. Even if you’re not staying you can get a day pass for the pool – one of the biggest and most spectacular in the US.
There’s another famous pool in town – the Venetian Pool, which was carved out of a coral rock quarry and finished in 1924. It’s a huge draw for locals and visitors, with its waterfalls, bridge and atmospheric grottoes to swim into.
Jump in your rental car and Miami becomes your oyster. Drive around it Art Deco neighbours or park up and hit the beach – the choice is yours.